Five-Ten岩鞋盒上的建議

一直以來, 所有岩鞋販賣者幾乎都建議初學者買岩鞋要越緊越好, 唯有我的建議是剛好就好. 但一直找不到什麼論點來證明我的看法, 剛好看到原來鞋盒上就有建議, 因此po上分享, 若覺得翻譯很遜的話, 沒關係我有附原文及圖, 請自行解讀即可.

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疼痛是愚蠢的, 千萬不要穿太緊的岩鞋

●一般運動鞋的尺寸僅提供選購岩鞋最起碼的參考
●岩鞋跟一般運動鞋不太一樣, 一般來說, 軟一點的岩鞋比較服貼, 硬一點的岩鞋比較不夠緊密.
●不要保留空隙, 但也不要緊到腳指頭紅斑出現.
●購買岩鞋時千萬不要選緊到不舒服的鞋子, 否則, 你的眼淚將在踩小點時奪眶而出.
●儘可能在午後試鞋, 以免其它時間的腳指頭會比較腫漲而多半號.
●鞋面的合成材質設計可使岩鞋不易變形—在六個月內你的岩鞋將不致鬆弛. 而你的腳指頭也不會在你攀登時出現紅腫現象.
●有襯皮的岩鞋, 在大約十次繩距的攀登訓練後, 將會撐大約1/3的尺寸.
●沒有襯皮的岩鞋則可能會撐出一倍的尺寸.
PAIN IS INSANE-DO NOT FIT YOUR SHOES TOO TIGHT
●Street shoe size is only a starting point.
●Rock shoes are unique, no two designs fit alike. Generally, softer shoes perform best with a snug fit. Stiffer shoes can be worn looser.
●Eliminate dead space but don’t fit so tight as to create hot spots.
●Climbing shoes should not be uncomfortably tight, otherwise tears might keep you from seeing micro edges.
●Feet swell during the day, from 1/2 to a full size. Try on shoes in the afternoon if possible.
●Synthetic uppers won’t stretch—you’ll have the same fit in six months. You should have no hot spots when you are up on your toes.
●Lined leather shoes stretch up to about 1/3 size after a break-in period of about 10 pitches.
●Unlined leather shoes will stretch up to 1 full size.